En esta entrada os contamos nuestra experiencia haciendo psicobloc en Mallorca; cómo hacer psicobloc, dónde hacer psicobloc en Mallorca, cuales son los. The deep water soloing (known locally as Psicobloc) is well developed and excellen. DWS or Psicobloc in Mallorca. Featured in. The place was Porto Pi and this became Mallorca’s first bouldering venue. Miquel continued his obsession with Psicobloc by opening new.

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Te ahorras el tener que desescalar aquel infierno o spicobloc ese muro hasta el mar. Read more about the experiences of a novice climber in Mallorca here. This allows all of the crags to be visited from wherever you end up staying.

Make sure you know the exit area from the sea. See Terms and Conditions. Liability and accident insurance.

Mallorca DWS Climbing Guide for Newbies

A number of other hard lines began to emerge in various locations, of which one of the more impressive was Klem Loskot’s route ‘Hupolup Kempf’, 8b S2which crossed one of the largest roofs to be found at Cala Sa Nau.

Safety The biggest safety tip is to get into this sport slowly. Usually with the crux move low down. This included a slightly enhanced version of the film ‘Psicobloc’ now renamed ‘Psicobloc Part 1’ and also a new film called ‘Psicobloc Part 2’, which documents some of Chris Sharma’s first visit to the island in After starting mellow at Cala Sa Nau, we’re planning on hitting the classic venue of Cala Varquez tomorrow.

After the first splash down you spend the rest of the day climbing in wet shoes. You have to be a fairly good climber even to get started on many of the routes. Llegamos a Palma, de noche y decidimos alquilar un coche en Mallorca para toda la semana. Activity Reviews Climbing Guide. Utilizamos cookies para asegurar que damos la mejor experiencia al usuario en nuestra web. Most serious incidents have involved people getting into difficulty trying to exit the water.


Although tricky at half height, the top half is much easier and only requires a so-called spacewalk finish. There are a few high quality sixes worth seeking out a list below.

Nosotros probamos a escalar en los mejores sitios para hacer psicobloc en Mallorca. The height is reduced to a more manageable size compared to the likes of Diablo and along with its variety of quality lines, this makes Barques a very popular venue. The venues also have problems up to 7a for the stronger climbers.

Porto Cristo Novo A stunning cave that is unfortunately a hot spot for tourist boat trips in the holiday months. While the conditions are far from perfect, hotter weather suits beginner climbers, who tend to spend most of their time in the water.

Climbing and deep water soloing/Psicobloc Mallorca

A dual format grading system is used. The huge amphitheatre of Sa Gubia others a wealth of classic fully bolted longer climbs. Additional lines have been added to the left of the area of which there is room for more.

If needs be, install a rope to assist getting out. Climbs sit mostly in the higher end of the grade spectrum and tackle steep caves and thin upper walls, which have proven difficult, even for the best amongst us!

This shocked the climbing world and emphasised that Deep Water Soloing could hold fatal consequences. A short roof takes you to a little cave. Once you start seriously thinking about topping out, October is probably the best time to climb.


The Mediterranean island of Mallorca is now well-known as a sport psivobloc destination. Rumour has it that most deaths on Mallorcan sea cliffs are a result of reckless jumping, not climbing.

Deep Water Soloing/Psicobloc

Make your way through them, and you will be ready to take on more serious DWS challenges. Still, to say that climbers started flocking to Mallorca from far and wide would be an overstatement. Either way, you might want to store a few things on the ledge.

Where to go Most of the developed deep water soloing areas are over on the east of the Island. However, one of the great attractions of Mallorca is its compact size and its good road network.

For a full tick start at the very bottom left hand side of the cave. However, I must stress at this point there is much more to this sport than meets the eye if you want to avoid serious injuries. The main cliffs where eleven lines mallodca been established require a traverse from the left side along a large hand rail.

Breath out only as much as necessary to prevent water from getting into your nose. Try crafting one out of a cut 1.

Cala Barques; Photo by Daimon Beail. A post shared by Zofia Reych upthatrock on Oct 19, at 1: A pair of rock shoes that will get repeatedly wet.